Brutus's Unimog - Changes i'ave made

Changes i've made to my Mog:

moved the spare tire from under the driver-side front of the bed and mounted it to the inside of the bed front wall on the driver-side. This was done to free up some room under the bed for future work (like an additional fuel can rack and another battery box for aux power for camping).
(my first setup) replaced the military plugs and wires with conventional plugs (Champion N-9YC (C is for Copper)) and wires (8mm Accel V8 wire set). The plugs come already gapped to the factory spec, i kept the military cap and used the ends from the miltary wires fitted to the new wires (the 8mm wire inner insulator fits perfectly into the mil insulator) but with the supplied rubber boots over the military distributor cap holes (a tie-wrap is used to hold the boots in place).
This setup should offer more then sufficient waterproofing for the occasional wading.
replaced the military 24V coil with an Accel 8140 12V coil. The 24V coil series resistor of 4.4 Ohms (spec at 4.5) reduces the voltage to the 12V coil down to 6V due to it's lower resistance and thus higher current drain, the Accel coil requires 9V for optimal output voltage (although this is much higher then required it's nice to have a little extra high voltage going to the plugs :) so i found some crome wire at an electric surplus store wound on a 20 Ohm resistor, cut off 2.4 Ohms worth and replaced the stock wire inside the preresistance box. Now the coil is getting 9 Volts, but the resistore is now dissipating 95 Watts vs 64 Watts for the stock setup. The wire for the resistor is well within spec (i.e. it's far from glowing) and the resistor box is mounted to the firewall and doesn't seem to be any hotter then it was with the stock setup (i.e. it's hot but you can't fry an egg (or finger)).
In addition the starter preresistor bypass wire (on the preresistor there are 3 wires (COIL+, START+, BATT+), one goes to the starter button such that when you press the starter button the coil is connected to the battery (i.e. the preresistor is bypassed). This was done to increase voltage into the coil to compensate for the decrease in battery voltage while the starter is running, this shouldn't be needed with the modern coils as they run at a much higher voltage out.
one more rev of ignition changes:
- replaced stock preresistor with three Mopar stock presistors for driving either a 12V coil with internal preresistor or a 12V coil which requires an external presresistor (aka ballast resistor).
- replaced stock points with a Pertronix ignition module, I replaced it in such a way that the stock points can be installed in less then 10 minutes if needed.
had my engine rebuilt by Eurosport (John Wessels EURMOG@aol.com):
- cylinders bored out with oversized pistons (the cylinder walls were pitted)
- crank balanced (a good idea)
- 2.5L head (very bad corrosion of the combustion chamber and it was hard to find a good condition used 2.2L head)
- 2.3L exhaust headers (the stock manifold always leaked and the 2.2L exhaust manifold passages are smaller the the 2.5L heads)
- new lightweight flywheel (ring gear was badly chewed up (i.e. not much of the teeth were left for the starter to engage) so it wasn't much more exensive to get a new flywheel then replace the old ones ring gear)
- new clutch disk (old one was down to the rivets, didn't know it, just got lucky (i.e. it would'ave failed soon))
16.5" rims (from Eurosport (John Wessels EURMOG@aol.com)) and Super Swamper TSL 38x15.50 radials.

Changes i'm planning on making to my Mog:

mount a NATO power connector (i've got the connector and a jumper cable, just need to fab a mounting bracket).
mount a second 2 can gas can rack.
mount a second battery box for aux power for camping.

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